Thursday 3 April 2014

An Evening with Vondeling


The third Hermanus Wine Club tasting was all about the Vondeling wines in the Greater Paarl area. The farm is situated between Paarl and Swartland against the lush side of the Paardenberg. Winemaker, Matthew Copeland, spoke about the area as well as seven of the ten wines in Vondeling’s portfolio.
The style of the wine can be described as a “hint of old world - charismatic and minimal intervention style” with alcohol between 12.5% and 13.5%. The lush side of the mountain where the farm is situated contains many species of fynbos, including some which have not been seen in many years. The fynbos is referenced to through the names of some of the wines, most noticeably in the flagship wine, Erica Shiraz.
The Sauvignon Blanc is made in a more scientific style where the wine is fruit driven. The vineyards also only receive three lots of water during the year, which is very little considering that the farm is in a warmer area. The Chardonnay that was tasted is a 2011 vintage, which is older than some of the red wines offered. Matthew’s personal belief is to drink a wine young and enjoy its vibrancy or allow it to significantly age and enjoy the complexities it releases.
The Chardonnay is made in a more Burgandian fashion where the balance is heavier. There is minimal intervention in the making of the Chardonnay. The grapes are pre-chilled and there is no settling or sulphur added. There is also no yeast added nor tartic acid to the wine. The barrels are also double format which allows the Chardonnay a good expression of the vintage.
The Babiana is a white blend which is led by Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay and Grenache Blanc. The name of the wine is derived from the fynbos flower, the last of which had been seen in 1957, until recently after a controlled burn of the fynbos on the Vondeling farm. The blend is contains no less than 50% Chenin Blanc as it is a grape that forms a part of the South African wine heritage. The wine has a long finish and can still be enjoyed in three years’ time.
The Baldrick Shiraz has got a more bright hue which is an indication of acidity and pH levels. The Shiraz is made with five clones and contains Mouvèdre and Viognier, which allows for a more subtle and peppery characteristics to be showcased. There are raspberries and violets on the nose and palate, where the Mouvèdre brings more earthinesses to the wine.
The Erica Shiraz is the Flagship wine of the cellar and is named after the indigenous flower that grows on the farm. The colour of the flower is the same hue as the capsule of the bottle. The Shiraz is made with three clones, which increase in richness. Matthew states that it is “Hard to make great wine off Shiraz”.
The final wine of the evening was the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon which was only in the second year of production. The Cabernet Sauvignon is made from a single vineyard which indicates that it from a single clone and location. The wine has mint characteristics and is eager and sleek.
Vondeling is the only known location of the Babiana noctiflora flower, a fynbos which had not been seen since 1957. There has been a new fynbos discovered, which the name of will be auctioned off in the near future. A photography book about the fynbos on Vondeling will also be released soon. Vondeling is open to the public from Monday to Friday 09:00-17:00 and Saturdays and public holidays by appointment.
The Hermanus Wine Club meets the first Tuesday of every month and each evening has a theme. The full roster is available on the website and guests are more than welcome to join.