Thursday, 18 October 2012

Cultivars


Did you know that there are over 8,000 grape varieties harvested in the world, however, only a select few appear in our stores?  

All the wine grape varieties cultivated in South Africa, which were originally imported from Europe, belong to the species Vitis vinifera. Unfortunately the roots of European vines are susceptible to an insect disease called phylloxera and, in order to avoid it, they are often grafted onto American rootstock which is largely resistant to the insect.

A vine yields its first crop after three years and is fully productive after five. On average, the South African vineyard is replaced after 25 years but this depends on factors such as the area in which it is situated and how heavily it has yielded. Generally, its lifespan may be anything between 15 and 30 years although vines as old as 100 years still in production can be found.

The vine is a remarkable plant which lends itself to selection, propagation and grafting factors which make possible a continuous improvement in both plant and quality. Although most of the vine varieties cultivated here today were originally imported, up to now six local crossings have been released. The best known of these is a red variety, Pinotage, a hybrid of Pinot Noir and Hermitage (Cinsaut), which is cultivated locally on a fairly large scale.

White-wine varieties grown in South Africa include:
  • Bukettraube
  • Cape Riesling (Crouchen Blanc)
  • Chardonnay
  • Chenel
  • Chenin Blanc (Steen)
  • Clairette Blanche
  • Colombar(d)
  • Emerald Riesling
  • Gewürztraminer
  • Grenache (Blanc)
  • Marsanne
  • Muscat d'Alexandrie (Hanepoot)
  • Muscadel
  • Nouvelle
  • Palomino (White French Grape)
  • Pinot Gris
  • Roussanne
  • Sauvignon Blanc
  • Semillon (Green Grape)
  • Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano)
  • Viognier
  • Weisser Riesling (Rhine Riesling)

Red-wine varieties grown in South Africa include:
  • Barbera
  • Cabernet Franc
  • Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Carignan
  • Cinsaut Gamay (Noir)
  • Grenache (Noir)
  • Malbec
  • Merlot
  • Mourvèdre
  • Muscadel
  • Nebbiolo
  • Petit Verdot
  • Pinot Meunier
  • Pinot Noir
  • Pinotage
  • Pontac
  • Roobernet
  • Ruby Cabernet
  • Shiraz
  • Souzào
  • Tempranillo (Tinta Roriz)
  • Tinta Barocca
  • Touriga Nacional
  • Zinfandel

Red Blends


South African wines are renowned as having some of the finest Red Blends in the world.

It is often understood that grapes which can be rather heavy on their own will work better by being mixed with a softer and more elegant wine, and delicate wines can be given strength and body through the addition of a meaty or more substantial wine.

In the past South African wine producers have concentrated heavily upon growing and making a single varietal of wine like Merlot or Shiraz.  After the fall of Apartheid, when European wines and grape vines were coming back into South Africa, there was intense planting of single varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Eventually, this led to over-production on the market of single-varietal wines, and some wine makers have been forced to branch out into other types of wine production, including making red wine blends from a mix of European and South African wine.

There are mainly three types of red blends:

Cape Blend
Any red wine blended with significant portion of Pinotage. (The statutory minimum portion of a variety to be mentioned on the label is 20% according to the regulations set by the South African Wine & Spirits Board) Pinotage is a uniquely South African grape variety and was bred by the late Prof Perold in 1925 as a cross between Pinot noir and Cinsaut, then locally known as Hermitage.
A patriotic Cape blend must thus surely be infused with the pertinence of Pinotage.


Bordeaux Blend
The Fab Five
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot.  These five red grapes are the components of a classic Bordeaux blend. Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot usually play the lead role, while Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot act as the supporting cast. These three grapes help to add color, structure and body in varying amounts. A Bordeaux blend typically, but not exclusively, uses at least three of the five grapes to be labeled as such, but many wines in Bordeaux and else where stick to just two.

Rhone Blend
The Rhone region of France has a delightful selection of red varieties. The primary red players of Rhone blends are Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre.  Typical wines termed "rhone blends" will have two or more grapes from the Rhone region and occasionally, small percentages of the secondary varieties.
Rhone blends are often called "GSM" or "SGM" - using the initials of the grapes used, the most predominant variety being the first initial.

Winemakers also have great success with Shiraz & Viognier wine styles.
It is truly an art to get the percentages of the different cultivars exactly right and to be able to blend a wine that blows your hair back! Well done South Africa, we are so spoiled!

Friday, 7 September 2012

Egg-straordinary!





Have you heard of wine made in a ceramic egg shaped containers? 

The large ceramic egg container is perhaps the largest living vessel in the world and is designed specifically for wine fermentation. The egg shape naturally encourages liquids to move in the lemniscate, or figure of eight, promoting continuous passive convection within, allowing developing wine to move and breathe inside, without stirring. Please view the video explaining the process in more detail.

The Romans were using basically this shape of vessel to ferment wine more than 2,000 years ago.  A dolium (plural: dolia) is a large earthenware vase or container used in ancient Roman times for storage or transportation of goods.

A handful of winegrowers are currently using egg shaped clay vats in view of adding complexity to their unoaked wines. If these vintners express different schools of thought on the best techniques to associate with this sort of container, they all share the same objective, that of preserving the true characteristics of their wines.

Organic and biodynamic growers make a point of exploring the best ways to elaborate wine as naturally as possible.  A vineyard in Southeast France came up with the idea in 1991, of creating a museum with a vineyard and cellar, producing wine according to ancient methods. This initiative has since stirred the imagination of some modern-day vintners, interested in finding out if terracotta oval casks can be a viable substitute for concrete, stainless steel or oak vats.

One of our local organic wineries in the upper Hemel en Aarde wine area has started experimenting with this idea.  The wine is not for sale, but we will keep you updated on the topic.

Thursday, 6 September 2012

Hermanus Wine and Food Fair






Wine, Weather, Whales, Weekend!

The 15th Hermanus Wine and Food Fair took place from 9 – 11 August and proved once again that the whales are not the only reason why people tend to flock to Hermanus.  The festival usually takes place over the first long weekend in August.

At this year’s Hermanus Wine and Food Fair the wine was once again flowing, the weather kept organisers on their toes and the whales were giving shows to those brave souls willing to face the wind and rain.

Wine Village - Hermanus sits at the heart of a number of excellent wine regions, including Elgin, Botrivier, Kleinrivier, Stanford and the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. The Hermanus Wine and Food Fair featured wines from the entire Overberg region.  While many of those sipping on the complimentary tasters were locals, many more made the short and picturesque drive from Cape Town, including international travelers from a host of countries.

The three-day fair filled a marquee pitched in the grounds of Wine Village, which serves as a one-stop shop for those seeking to taste local wines but without the time to go from farm-to-farm, with more than 700 producers from across South Africa represented.

The wines that were available to taste were for sale at the Wine Village at cellar door prices.  Apart from wine there were also two boutique distilleries showcasing their handmade gins, vodkas and a much raved about absinthe. There was also handcrafted cider on offer and while there was also port to taste and a couple of MCCs (Methode Cap Classique, the local name for Champagne), some of the best sellers were Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz and Pinot Noir.

For those more interested in nibbling than sipping, entrance to the food tent was free and filled with locally-produced cheese, cured meats, organic nibbles and a host of enticing baked goodies for dessert. Local restaurants also showed that wine and food go hand-in-hand together and an exciting line up of food is already being planned for the Hermanus Wine and Food Fair 2013!

Away from the wine, live music played, kids got their faces painted and families shopped for food and crafts both within the tent and the rest of the Wine Village beyond. And if the wine tasting ever got too much, the town’s world-famous whale watching was only a short drive away.  Please remember to include this weekend in your diary for next year: 9 – 11 August 2013 and join us for Wonderful Wine, Wild Weather and Wonderous Whales over the winter weekend!

www.hermanuswineandfood.co.za

Friday, 16 March 2012

Wine Speak - By Ronald Searle

This delightful book made it's way to us:

Delicate nose:

Pleasantly scented, very agreeable:

Ages beautifully:

Generous and high in alcoholic content:



Friday, 17 February 2012

Oak Barrels...101


The use of oak plays a significant role in winemaking and can have a profound effect on the resulting wine, affecting the colour, flavour, tannin profile and texture of the wine.  Oak can come into contact with wine, in the form of a barrel, during the fermentation or ageing periods. It can be introduced to the wine in the form of free-floating oak chips or as wood staves (or sticks) added to wine in a fermentation vessel like stainless steel. The use of oak barrels can impart other qualities to wine through the processes of evaporation and low level exposure to oxygen.

The use of oak has been prevalent in winemaking for at least two millennia, first coming into widespread use during the Roman Empire.  In time, winemakers discovered that beyond just storage convenience that wine kept in oak barrels took on properties that improved the wine by making it softer and in some cases better-tasting.

The chemical properties of oak itself can have a profound effect on the wine.  Phenols within the wood interact with the wine to produce vanilla type flavours and can give the impression of tea notes or sweetness. The degree of "toast" on the barrel can also impart different properties affecting the tannin levels of the wine as well as the aggressive wood flavours.

Since French oak must be split, only 20% to 25% of the tree can be utilized;
American oak may be serrated, which makes it at least twice as economical. It’s more pronounced oxidation and a quicker release of aromas help wines to loose their astringency and harshness faster; which makes this the wood of choice for shorter maturations - six to ten months. Because of American oak’s modest tannin contribution, the perfect first fill is a wine with abundant tannins and good texture; it allows the fruit to interact harmoniously with the wood, which contributes a wide array of complex aromas and soft, yet very palatable tannins.

French oak, on the other hand, generates silky and transparent tannins, which transmit a sensation of light sweetness combined with fruity flavours that persist in the mouth.  Spices and toasted almond are noteworthy, combined with flavours of ripe red fruit in red wines, and notes of peach, exotic fruits and floral aromas like jasmine and rose in whites, depending on the grape variety employed.

Wine barrels, especially those made of oak, have long been used as containers in which wine is aged. Aging in oak typically imparts desirable vanilla, butter and spice flavours to wine. The size of the barrel plays a large role in determining the effects of oak on the wine by dictating the ratio of surface area to volume of wine with smaller containers having a larger impact. The most common barrels are the Bordeaux barriques style which hold 220 L followed by the Burgundy style barrel which hold 230 L.

New barrels impart more flavours than do previously used barrels. Over time many of the oak properties get "leached" out of the barrel with layers of natural deposits left from the wine building up on the wood to where after 3 to 5 vintages there may be little or no oak flavours imparted on the wine.  The cost of barrels varies due to the supply and demand market economy and can change with different features that a cooperage may offer. In South Africa barrels can cost about R10 000 each.  Due to the expense of barrels, several techniques have been devised in an attempt to save money. One is to shave the inside of used barrels and insert new thin inner staves that have been toasted.

Barrels are constructed in cooperages. The traditional method of European coopers have been to hand-split the oak into staves (or strips) along the grain. After the oak is split, it is allowed to "season" or dry outdoors while exposed to the elements. This process can take anywhere from 10 to 36 months during which time the harshest tannins from the wood are leached out. These tannins are visible as dark gray and black residue left on the ground once the staves are removed. The longer the wood is allowed to season the softer the potential wine stored in the barrels may be but this can add substantially to the cost of the barrel. In some American cooperage the wood is dried in a kiln instead of outdoor seasoning. While this method is much faster, it doesn't soften the tannins quite as much as outdoor seasoning.

The staves are then heated, traditionally over an open fire, and when pliable are bent into the shape of the desired barrel and held together with iron rings. Instead of fire, a cooper may use steam to heat up the staves but this tends to impart less "toastiness" and complexity to the resulting wine. Following the traditional, hand worked style a cooper is typically able to construct one barrel in a day's time. Winemakers can order barrels with the wood on the inside of the barrel having been lightly charred or “toasted” with fire, medium toasted, or heavily toasted. Typically the "lighter" the toasting the more oak flavour and tannins that are imparted. Heavy toast or "charred" which is typical treatment of barrels in Burgundy wine have an added dimension from the char that medium or light toasted barrels do not impart.  Heavy toasting dramatically reduces the coconut note lactones, but create a high carbon content that may reduce the coloring of some wines. The toasting also enhances smokey and spicy notes that in some wines are similar to the aromatics of oil of cloves.

Although oak barrels have long been used by winemakers, many wineries now use oak wood chips for aging wine more quickly and also adding desired woody aromas along with butter and vanilla flavours. Oak chips can be added during fermentation or during aging. In the latter case, they are generally placed into fabric sacks and placed into the aging wine. The diversity of chips available gives winemakers numerous options. Oak chips have the benefit of imparting intense oak flavoring in a matter of weeks while traditional oak barrels would need a year or more to convey similar intensity. Critics claim that the oak flavouring from chips tend to be one-dimensional and skewed towards the vanilla extract with the wines still lacking some of the physical benefits that barrel oak imparts.

The use of oak powder is also less common than chips, although they are a very practical alternative if oak character is to be introduced during fermentation. Oak planks or staves are sometimes used, either during fermentation or aging. Wines made from these barrel alternatives typically do not age as well as wines that are matured in barrels. 

Throughout history other wood types, including chestnut, pine, redwood, and acacia, have been used in crafting winemaking vessels, particularly large fermentation vats. However none of these wood types possess the compatibility with wine that oak has demonstrated in combining its water tight, yet slightly porous, storage capabilities with the unique flavour and texture characteristic that it can impart to the wine that it is in contact with.

Chestnut is very high in tannins and is too porous as a storage barrel and must be coated with paraffin to prevent excessive wine loss through evaporation. Redwood is too rigid to bend into the smaller barrel shapes and imparts an unpleasant flavour. Acacia imparts a yellow tint to the wine. Other hardwoods like apple and cherry wood have an off putting smell.

Fauna and Flora on our doorstep

We are very excited that the tarring of the Hemel en Aarde road is starting this year.
New emphasis has been put on the rich wildlife in our area and how the roadworks will affect them.  I am happy to report that a large project has been initiated to preserve the wildlife while roadworks are in progress. 

The largest carnivorous plant in the world is called roridula or vlieëbos in Afrikaans. Dr Anina Lee, chairperson of Whale Coast Conservation says this plant grows right here on our doorstep, but the exact location is a closely guarded secret as it is so rare and endangered.
This plant can get up to two meters tall and its leaves are covered in hairs with sticky droplets with which they capture insects and even small birds.

But, surprisingly, the plants have no digestive enzymes to digest their prey, so why do they catch them? It was found that small bugs live on roridula in great abundance. The bugs hold their bodies away from the traps and, with specially adapted feet, they run at great speed over what would be a death trap for any other insect. These bugs roam the plants in search of food – insect food. When an insect is found, struggling helplessly against the stickiness, the bugs approach cautiously. The bugs probe with their probisci looking for a weak spot in the exoskeleton of the prey.
Each time the prey moves, the bug retreats, only to probe again and again. With each probe, a tiny amount of venom is injected and soon the prey succumbs and dies. Within half an hour black bugs fly in from close by and a massive seething scrum develops, vying for a place at the carcass, using their hind legs to lash out at rivals that get too close.

Soon the prey is reduced to a dry husk and the bloated bugs slowly disperse. But before they disperse, they defecate on leaves of roridula. The nitrogenrich faeces are fertilizer for roridula which can absorb the nitrogen straight through their leaves. So roridula does not need digestive enzymes – it has an army of living organisms to do the job of digestion.
Dr Lee says: “For more interesting facts about our weird and wonderful indigenous species, visit the Hermanus Flower and Eco Fair at the Fernkloof Nature Reserve in September.