Egg-straordinary!

Have you heard of wine made in a ceramic egg shaped containers? 

The large ceramic egg container is perhaps the largest living vessel in the world and is designed specifically for wine fermentation. The egg shape naturally encourages liquids to move in the lemniscate, or figure of eight, promoting continuous passive convection within, allowing developing wine to move and breathe inside, without stirring. Please view the video explaining the process in more detail.

The Romans were using basically this shape of vessel to ferment wine more than 2,000 years ago.  A dolium (plural: dolia) is a large earthenware vase or container used in ancient Roman times for storage or transportation of goods.

A handful of winegrowers are currently using egg shaped clay vats in view of adding complexity to their unoaked wines. If these vintners express different schools of thought on the best techniques to associate with this sort of container, they all share the same objective, that of preserving the true characteristics of their wines.

Organic and biodynamic growers make a point of exploring the best ways to elaborate wine as naturally as possible.  A vineyard in Southeast France came up with the idea in 1991, of creating a museum with a vineyard and cellar, producing wine according to ancient methods. This initiative has since stirred the imagination of some modern-day vintners, interested in finding out if terracotta oval casks can be a viable substitute for concrete, stainless steel or oak vats.

One of our local organic wineries in the upper Hemel en Aarde wine area has started experimenting with this idea.  The wine is not for sale, but we will keep you updated on the topic.

Hermanus Wine and Food Fair

Wine, Weather, Whales, Weekend!

The 15th Hermanus Wine and Food Fair took place from 9 – 11 August and proved once again that the whales are not the only reason why people tend to flock to Hermanus.  The festival usually takes place over the first long weekend in August.

At this year’s Hermanus Wine and Food Fair the wine was once again flowing, the weather kept organisers on their toes and the whales were giving shows to those brave souls willing to face the wind and rain.

Wine Village - Hermanus sits at the heart of a number of excellent wine regions, including Elgin, Botrivier, Kleinrivier, Stanford and the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. The Hermanus Wine and Food Fair featured wines from the entire Overberg region.  While many of those sipping on the complimentary tasters were locals, many more made the short and picturesque drive from Cape Town, including international travelers from a host of countries.

The three-day fair filled a marquee pitched in the grounds of Wine Village, which serves as a one-stop shop for those seeking to taste local wines but without the time to go from farm-to-farm, with more than 700 producers from across South Africa represented.

The wines that were available to taste were for sale at the Wine Village at cellar door prices.  Apart from wine there were also two boutique distilleries showcasing their handmade gins, vodkas and a much raved about absinthe. There was also handcrafted cider on offer and while there was also port to taste and a couple of MCCs (Methode Cap Classique, the local name for Champagne), some of the best sellers were Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz and Pinot Noir.

For those more interested in nibbling than sipping, entrance to the food tent was free and filled with locally-produced cheese, cured meats, organic nibbles and a host of enticing baked goodies for dessert. Local restaurants also showed that wine and food go hand-in-hand together and an exciting line up of food is already being planned for the Hermanus Wine and Food Fair 2013!

Away from the wine, live music played, kids got their faces painted and families shopped for food and crafts both within the tent and the rest of the Wine Village beyond. And if the wine tasting ever got too much, the town’s world-famous whale watching was only a short drive away.  Please remember to include this weekend in your diary for next year: 9 – 11 August 2013 and join us for Wonderful Wine, Wild Weather and Wonderous Whales over the winter weekend!

www.hermanuswineandfood.co.za

Wine Speak - By Ronald Searle

This delightful book made it's way to us:

Delicate nose:

Pleasantly scented, very agreeable:

Ages beautifully:

Generous and high in alcoholic content:



Oak Barrels...101

The use of oak plays a significant role in winemaking and can have a profound effect on the resulting wine, affecting the colour, flavour, tannin profile and texture of the wine.  Oak can come into contact with wine, in the form of a barrel, during the fermentation or ageing periods. It can be introduced to the wine in the form of free-floating oak chips or as wood staves (or sticks) added to wine in a fermentation vessel like stainless steel. The use of oak barrels can impart other qualities to wine through the processes of evaporation and low level exposure to oxygen.

The use of oak has been prevalent in winemaking for at least two millennia, first coming into widespread use during the Roman Empire.  In time, winemakers discovered that beyond just storage convenience that wine kept in oak barrels took on properties that improved the wine by making it softer and in some cases better-tasting.

The chemical properties of oak itself can have a profound effect on the wine.  Phenols within the wood interact with the wine to produce vanilla type flavours and can give the impression of tea notes or sweetness. The degree of "toast" on the barrel can also impart different properties affecting the tannin levels of the wine as well as the aggressive wood flavours.

Since French oak must be split, only 20% to 25% of the tree can be utilized;

American oak may be serrated, which makes it at least twice as economical. It’s more pronounced oxidation and a quicker release of aromas help wines to loose their astringency and harshness faster; which makes this the wood of choice for shorter maturations - six to ten months. Because of American oak’s modest tannin contribution, the perfect first fill is a wine with abundant tannins and good texture; it allows the fruit to interact harmoniously with the wood, which contributes a wide array of complex aromas and soft, yet very palatable tannins.

French oak, on the other hand, generates silky and transparent tannins, which transmit a sensation of light sweetness combined with fruity flavours that persist in the mouth.  Spices and toasted almond are noteworthy, combined with flavours of ripe red fruit in red wines, and notes of peach, exotic fruits and floral aromas like jasmine and rose in whites, depending on the grape variety employed.

Wine barrels, especially those made of oak, have long been used as containers in which wine is aged. Aging in oak typically imparts desirable vanilla, butter and spice flavours to wine. The size of the barrel plays a large role in determining the effects of oak on the wine by dictating the ratio of surface area to volume of wine with smaller containers having a larger impact. The most common barrels are the Bordeaux barriques style which hold 220 L followed by the Burgundy style barrel which hold 230 L.

New barrels impart more flavours than do previously used barrels. Over time many of the oak properties get "leached" out of the barrel with layers of natural deposits left from the wine building up on the wood to where after 3 to 5 vintages there may be little or no oak flavours imparted on the wine.  The cost of barrels varies due to the supply and demand market economy and can change with different features that a cooperage may offer. In South Africa barrels can cost about R10 000 each.  Due to the expense of barrels, several techniques have been devised in an attempt to save money. One is to shave the inside of used barrels and insert new thin inner staves that have been toasted.

Barrels are constructed in cooperages. The traditional method of European coopers have been to hand-split the oak into staves (or strips) along the grain. After the oak is split, it is allowed to "season" or dry outdoors while exposed to the elements. This process can take anywhere from 10 to 36 months during which time the harshest tannins from the wood are leached out. These tannins are visible as dark gray and black residue left on the ground once the staves are removed. The longer the wood is allowed to season the softer the potential wine stored in the barrels may be but this can add substantially to the cost of the barrel. In some American cooperage the wood is dried in a kiln instead of outdoor seasoning. While this method is much faster, it doesn't soften the tannins quite as much as outdoor seasoning.

The staves are then heated, traditionally over an open fire, and when pliable are bent into the shape of the desired barrel and held together with iron rings. Instead of fire, a cooper may use steam to heat up the staves but this tends to impart less "toastiness" and complexity to the resulting wine. Following the traditional, hand worked style a cooper is typically able to construct one barrel in a day's time. Winemakers can order barrels with the wood on the inside of the barrel having been lightly charred or “toasted” with fire, medium toasted, or heavily toasted. Typically the "lighter" the toasting the more oak flavour and tannins that are imparted. Heavy toast or "charred" which is typical treatment of barrels in Burgundy wine have an added dimension from the char that medium or light toasted barrels do not impart.  Heavy toasting dramatically reduces the coconut note lactones, but create a high carbon content that may reduce the coloring of some wines. The toasting also enhances smokey and spicy notes that in some wines are similar to the aromatics of oil of cloves.

Although oak barrels have long been used by winemakers, many wineries now use oak wood chips for aging wine more quickly and also adding desired woody aromas along with butter and vanilla flavours. Oak chips can be added during fermentation or during aging. In the latter case, they are generally placed into fabric sacks and placed into the aging wine. The diversity of chips available gives winemakers numerous options. Oak chips have the benefit of imparting intense oak flavoring in a matter of weeks while traditional oak barrels would need a year or more to convey similar intensity. Critics claim that the oak flavouring from chips tend to be one-dimensional and skewed towards the vanilla extract with the wines still lacking some of the physical benefits that barrel oak imparts.

The use of oak powder is also less common than chips, although they are a very practical alternative if oak character is to be introduced during fermentation. Oak planks or staves are sometimes used, either during fermentation or aging. Wines made from these barrel alternatives typically do not age as well as wines that are matured in barrels. 

Throughout history other wood types, including chestnut, pine, redwood, and acacia, have been used in crafting winemaking vessels, particularly large fermentation vats. However none of these wood types possess the compatibility with wine that oak has demonstrated in combining its water tight, yet slightly porous, storage capabilities with the unique flavour and texture characteristic that it can impart to the wine that it is in contact with.

Chestnut is very high in tannins and is too porous as a storage barrel and must be coated with paraffin to prevent excessive wine loss through evaporation. Redwood is too rigid to bend into the smaller barrel shapes and imparts an unpleasant flavour. Acacia imparts a yellow tint to the wine. Other hardwoods like apple and cherry wood have an off putting smell.

Fauna and Flora on our doorstep

We are very excited that the tarring of the Hemel en Aarde road is starting this year.

New emphasis has been put on the rich wildlife in our area and how the roadworks will affect them.  I am happy to report that a large project has been initiated to preserve the wildlife while roadworks are in progress. 

The largest carnivorous plant in the world is called roridula or vlieëbos in Afrikaans. Dr Anina Lee, chairperson of Whale Coast Conservation says this plant grows right here on our doorstep, but the exact location is a closely guarded secret as it is so rare and endangered.

This plant can get up to two meters tall and its leaves are covered in hairs with sticky droplets with which they capture insects and even small birds.

But, surprisingly, the plants have no digestive enzymes to digest their prey, so why do they catch them? It was found that small bugs live on roridula in great abundance. The bugs hold their bodies away from the traps and, with specially adapted feet, they run at great speed over what would be a death trap for any other insect. These bugs roam the plants in search of food – insect food. When an insect is found, struggling helplessly against the stickiness, the bugs approach cautiously. The bugs probe with their probisci looking for a weak spot in the exoskeleton of the prey.

Each time the prey moves, the bug retreats, only to probe again and again. With each probe, a tiny amount of venom is injected and soon the prey succumbs and dies. Within half an hour black bugs fly in from close by and a massive seething scrum develops, vying for a place at the carcass, using their hind legs to lash out at rivals that get too close.

Soon the prey is reduced to a dry husk and the bloated bugs slowly disperse. But before they disperse, they defecate on leaves of roridula. The nitrogenrich faeces are fertilizer for roridula which can absorb the nitrogen straight through their leaves. So roridula does not need digestive enzymes – it has an army of living organisms to do the job of digestion.

Dr Lee says: “For more interesting facts about our weird and wonderful indigenous species, visit the Hermanus Flower and Eco Fair at the Fernkloof Nature Reserve in September.

Fire Hot Hermanus

The last thing you need is a fire on your farm just before harvest time!

Thick clouds of smoke enveloped Stanford and Hermanus over the first weekend in February 2012 as a massive bush fire raged out of control on the Klein River Mountains. 

The fire, which started in Tesselaarsdal, was fanned by strong winds and dry fynbos and quickly spread from farm to farm.

Residents and volunteers from as far afield as Caledon and Hermanus raced around the hamlet trying to keep the fire from consuming any houses.

Reinard Geldenhuys, head of Fire and Rescue in the Overberg, said several firefighters and a helicopter battled to quell the flames.

By midnight on the Saturday an ominous orange glow filled the night sky on the mountains above Stanford. By the Sunday morning the fire was raging on the Sir Robert Stanford wine estate and quickly spread to neighbouring farms.

Farmers from the district and dozens of volunteers pitched in to keep the fire from spreading to the vineyards.

Jan and Madré Malan, owners of Sir Robert Stanford, said they were overwhelmed by the amount of support they received.

“Everyone, neighbours and strangers, pitched in to help save the vines. We are planning on starting the harvest in the new week, and we are so grateful for all the help we received,” Madré said.

Charlie and Julie Crowther, owners of the Glen Oakes farm, said two of their pigs were caught in the fire. “Their skin was burned off. The one burned to death, and we had to shoot the other,” Charlie said.

Riaan Jacobs, head of Overstrand Fire and Rescue, said he suspects the fire started after a homeowner burned the grass around his house to clear it. The wind picked up, and the fire could not be stopped.

The Crowthers said it was like an avalanche coming down, with nowhere to run. “The fire burned 80% of our farm. Even though we lost two pigs, we are very thankful to all involved in coming to our rescue to prevent a very ferocious fire from destroying our home, the rest of our livestock, irrigation systems and infrastructure.”

CapeNature, Working on Fire, Overstrand Fire and Rescue, Overberg Fire and Rescue, farmers, their workers and members of the public worked non-stop for four days to bring the fire under control.

Some six fire trucks, a helicopter, 30 members of Fire and Rescue and countless members of the public fought against the fire.

Reinhard Odendaal, winemaker at Walker Bay Vineyards and Birkenhead Brewery, said his eyes were still red, and he still smelled like a barbecue after helping to fight the fire continuously for more than 24 hours.

Approximately 15000 hectares of fynbos were destroyed, but thankfully no structures or lives were lost.

Janine van der Riet and De Waal Steyn

Source: Hermanus Times

Olive Oil

The first Olive tree in the Cape was planted by Jan van Riebeeck in 1661 on his farm in Boschheuvel. That was only the beginning of the Olive Oil industry in South Africa. In 1907 a farmer from Paarl received a gold medal for the “finest olive oil produced in the British Empire” at the London Show.

An Italian immigrant, Ferdinando Costa, then decided to import numerous olive cultivars. Today we have more than 300 olive growers in South Africa.

The Overberg is doing extremely well with Olive Oil. Adamskloof recently won double gold at the SA Olive awards, Gabrielskloof got awarded with gold, others in our area include Barton, Hamilton Russell, Southern Right, Stanford Hills and Hermanuspietersfontein to name but a few.

Classification of Olive Oils and Olive Oil Terminology

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Free acidity (measured as oleic acid) below 0.8% with no organaleptic defects. This is the best Olive Oil you can buy. But beware, just like you get better and poorere wines – not all Extra Virgin Olive Oils are equal.

Fine Virgin Olive Oil

Free acidity below 2%

Virgin Olive Oil

Free acidity below 3.3%

Lampante Virgin Olive Oil

Free acidity above 3.3% but is not fit for consumption.

Refined Olive Oil

Obtained from virgin olive oil (such as Lampante) by refining methods which do not lead to alterations in the initial glyceride structure. This oil is often called Pure Olive Oil.

Olive Oil

Consists of a blend of virgin olive oil fit for consumption (not Lampante) and refined olive oil.

Olive Pomace Oil

Formerly known as olive residue oil. This is oil which is produced by chemically treating the press-cake after initial pressing to extract remaining oil. This crude oil can then be further refined chemically to reduce acidity and it is often blended with virgin olive oil to restore some colour and flavour.

The colour of the oil is not really a good indicator of the quality, but rather of when the fruit were harvested. Early in the season the oil of most cultivars tends to be a darker green and later in the season it is more yellow.

How to store your oil

If properly stored, olive oil keeps longer than other edible cooking oils. Olive oil will stay fresh longest if it is kept in an airtight glass container, in a cool cupboard. It should never be kept in the fridge, as it will become thick and cloudy. If this happens, remove form the fridge and it will return to normal.

Tasting

Extra Virgin Olive Oil is chosen for its taste because it is used to add flavour and enhance the taste of your food.

By learning more about good quality olive oil and a good tasting technique it is possible to reawaken our senses and make a better choice when buying olive oil.

Principles of tasting

Strictly speaking taste refers to those sensations perceived by the tongue. However, taste is also influenced by the reaction of the mucous membranes, by the flavour perceived after swallowing and by the mouth-feel or texture of the item. The harmony of the various taste components is very important.

However, remember that freshness is paramount.

The senses

Sight is not the important one of the important senses when tasting. What you see can be misleading. When olive oil is professionally tested, the colour is deliberately removed from the equation by placing the sample in blue glasses.

The sense of smell is the most important sense in tasting. It is also the most sensitive. We can also differentiate between a considerable number of different aromas. With the sense of smell we will be able to perceive most of the fruity and green notes. It is important to remember that we can perceive combined aromas.

Bitterness and pungency are the main attributes to be noted while tasting. Some tasters tend to confuse bitterness with pungency. The former is always perceived on the tongue and the latter usually further back in the throat.

Precautions 

Peppery and bitter tastes and especially off-flavours, makes the mouth very sensitive, therefore it is best not to taste more than six oils in one session. If you start the tasting session with a strong and overpowering oil subsequent oils tend to taste stronger than they really are.  

To decide the order in which they should be tasted, it is important to screen the oils first by their aroma. Taste the milder oils first, followed by the more robust oils. Oils with obvious defects should be tasted last.  

Always refresh your mouth between each tasting with sparkling water or a slice of apple.  

Perfumes, deodorants, sweets, drinks like coffee, eating and smoking should be avoided at least 30 minutes before and during the tasting. Avoid washing your hands with perfumed soaps and don’t use perfumed hand lotions before a tasting session.  

Use separate tasting glasses for each sample and taste the oils in a clean, light and airy environment.  

Taste with a friend, make notes, compare and have great fun! 

Ready to taste

Pour about a teaspoon or 5ml of oil in a glass and rotate the glass to wet the sides fully.  

Warm the sides of the glass with the palms of your hands to allow the aromas to escape into the glass. Cover the top of the class with your other hand to contain the aromas in the glass.  

After about one minute take the top hand off and bring the oil as closely as possible to your nose. Slowly inhale deeply two or three times in succession, making a mental note of the bouquet is it fresh or is there a trace of rancidity? 

Smell

First note the intensity of the aroma and assess the distinctive fresh olive fruitiness. The first impression is often the most distinctive and should be remembered. Other aromas are then sorted and noted. A good quality, fresh oil should exhibit firstly a definite olive-fruity aroma, followed by pungent, green and bitter (and other desirable) aromas.

The stronger the flavour of the oil, the longer you’ll need to wait before the next tasting. One or two sniffs should be sufficient to recognise a succession of smells which recall other familiar aromas. If necessary, repeat after about a minute.

Taste

Take a small sip of approximately 2 to 3 ml. Roll the oil over the tongue and round the mouth, distributing the oil throughout the whole of the mouth. This is very important, because the perception of the four primary tastes (sweet, salty, acid and bitter) varies in intensity depending on the area of the tongue, palate and throat.  

With your lips semi-closed, inhale rapidly two or three times in succession to spray the oil onto your tongue and palate. The intake of air helps to release the volatile aromas, allowing them to pass up the nasal passages.  

Memorize the flavours, and then spit the oil out. If necessary, repeat the tasting, but only after you’ve rinsed your mouth with clean water. 

Rinse

When you are finished tasting spit the Oil out. Clean the mouth with water and apples. That will enable you to taste multiple oils without compromising your judgement.

Personal preference

The first and more important rule is: What you think is good is good. Olive oil is best chosen as you would choose a wine, by personal preference.

There is no right or wrong when choosing a good quality olive oil. Some people prefer light sweet oils; others prefer punchy oils with plenty of peppery notes, or choose two or even three different styles of oil for different culinary purposes.